Hauz Khas

We went exploring in a neighborhood not far from ours called, Hauz Khas. The name is derived from Urdu - Hauz meaning "water tank" or lake, and Khas meaning "royal." This area dates back to the end of the 13th Century during the period of the second (of seven) city of Delhi, known as "Siri."

The ruins here are quite beautiful. Hauz Khas is being renovated by the Archaeological Survey of India, and includes a Mosque, a seminary and a series of Muslim tombs.The neighboring Hauz Khas Village has been built up around narrow, winding alleyways. It offers some very good restaurants and boutiques to explore and sample. The village is probably as close as you can find for a hip, trendy neighborhood in Delhi - unfortunately with the standard rubble, debris and trash found almost everywhere in urban India. We'd been to the village before to try a restaurant and to explore some shops, but oddly, we had never wandered to the far side to visit the ruins.

The archaeological site has wonderful, new, easy to read signage that explains almost every aspect of Hauz Khas. The kids had fun exploring 700 year old chambers and climbing the ancient stone stairways of the complex. The park includes a wonderful, renovated stone walkway (90% complete as of Jan '11) that encircles the lake. The water is a bit green, but the park is peaceful and fairly well maintained. The park also seems to be quite a college scene... students were walking and hanging out; joking and enjoying each other's company. We had a really good day. Hauz Khas was a great place to be on a sunny winter's day and a fun way to spend time as a family - especially since Saturday was Evan's ninth birthday!

Chilly in Dilli

January is when winter falls on New Delhi with a clammy chill. The fog - most of which is smoke - blankets the city for much of each day. The temperatures really aren't that bad by western standards - typically 45 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit. But when you don't have central heat and your floors and bathrooms are tiled in marble... an apartment becomes more of a walk-in refrigerator than a home.

We have two rolling space heaters. These are great for keeping the bedrooms a little warmer at night. But our living room never really gets above 60 degrees in January. The warmest place, by far, is under the covers in bed.Outside everyone is bundled up... as if they are living in Oslo, Buffalo or some other cold, dark, northern city. Scarves are used in imaginative ways to cover the body - turned in to turbans, babushkas, face masks, etc. Blankets are worn as part of one's outer-wear.

To be honest, living in Delhi in the winter is a little like camping at home during the off season. Taking a morning shower is a painful experience even with hot, running water. Our food at dinnertime has to be eaten quickly (if you want a warm meal), and of course there is the ever-present smell of campfire smoke. The smell gets on everything - clothing, towels, sheets and bed covers. Lesa and I went on our morning walk this past Sunday and counted 19 campfires in our neighborhood. Workers huddle around small yellow, smokey flames every three or four lots. These cold morning scenes look almost post-apocalyptic to me....

... until we turn a street corner and see scores of stray dogs wearing their quilted, doggy jackets.

The sad animals swelter from April to October in the intense heat, only to find a wool doggy jacket strapped to their backs in November - just when the weather is getting lovely. Worried locals donate the jackets each winter to the street dogs. Afraid the animals might be cold. Sterilization, might be a kinder, more cost effective program. Less puppies, less doggy jackets to buy next winter.

The best thing about this time of year is the food selection. Things like strawberries, apples, broccoli and peas are all plentiful, fresh, cheap and tasty.

We might have to eat fast, and our fingers and toes are usually cold (and the dogs look a little silly), but we still manage to be amused, have fun and enjoy the season. For soon we know the temperature will again rise to 115F.

Ah, winter in Delhi.

Haircut 100

I really don't like to get my haircut. Not sure if it has to do with the sharp instruments, the smell of salon chemicals, or maybe even the feel of a barber's chair. Maybe it was that old wooden board my father's barber, Roy made me sit on... Roy used to lay the board across the arms of his red barber's chair. I'd sit on that board instead of in the chair. This made me tall enough so poor Roy wouldn't have to strain his back while he clipped my hair. Whatever the reason, to this day, I usually wait until my hair is getting a bit too shaggy before feeling the urge to get it cut. My problem has nothing to do with living in India. I've just never enjoyed getting my hair cut. Which brings me to today.... I looked in the mirror this morning and figured it was time to go...

There are a few options in India for getting a hair cut. The easiest one (and the most expensive) is getting an appointment at a nice, European-style salon. (these are often called "Saloons" here - no whiskey, just shampoo and mousse) These are usually located in expensive hotels or malls, but still cost less then a salon in a western country. The skill of the stylist may still be a crap-shoot. Lesa has actually finally found a pretty good one who is from France.

The next option is probably the most common, and the most colorful: the Indian street barber. These guys can be found in almost every neighborhood and have very little overhead - literally. They usually set up shop with a makeshift wooden table and chair. A mirror is often tacked to a tree or wall at curbside. Hygiene is not a main concern, but a customer gets a neat, quick haircut for about fifteen rupees. (that's about 30 US cents.) A shave will cost you another 10 rupees. Using a street barber is actually quite a spectator sport. A haircut and shave will almost always involve a small crowd of friends, neighbors or just simply curious onlookers...

Not being brave enough to take the sidewalk salon route, I have always opted for the neighborhood barbershop. These are a little more expensive - my haircuts cost 100 rupees (US$2) including tip. These shops are mostly clean and they smell just as bad as a barbershop anywhere. I wait with men who read the local newspaper, or style magazines with pretty girls on the cover. Conversation is usually minimal. My current barber's name is Sanjeet. His shop is only 2 blocks from our flat and he can cut my hair in about 15 minutes.... He even still knows how to use a straight razor. My kind of barber.

Hopefully I won't wait so long next time to get my haircut...